The craftsmanship, tradition and ingenuity of Japanese luxury fruit

In a greenhouse in central Japan, Daiki Kimpara grows some of the country's most prized melons, guided by one principle: one plant yields just one special fruit. But what does it take to grow something truly remarkable? 

Three flowers from one melon plant are chosen for pollination, but only the best one is allowed to grow. The others are taken away so the plant can focus its nutrients on one fruit. 

For Kimpara, a third-generation Crown Melon grower in Fukuroi, Shizuoka Prefecture, producing an exceptional melon begins long before that decision. 

While visitors admire the melons hanging from the vines, Kimpara focuses on the plants themselves, particularly their roots.

"No matter how hard you work later, you can't produce a good melon if you haven't properly developed the plant from the beginning," he told Spotlight Japan.

The 38-year-old grower says one of the greatest challenges is deciding how much water to use, a judgment that depends on the plant's condition and the weather. 

"When deciding how much water to give a plant, it comes down to a gut feeling. And that differs from grower to grower," he said.

Even following the same procedures a year later will not produce an identical melon because growing conditions are never the same.

That pursuit of perfection reflects a family responsibility.

Each Crown Melon -- a branded variety of muskmelon from the prefecture -- bears a sticker with the growers' association logo and a number identifying its producer.

Kimpara's is 727, a number passed down from his grandfather, who was also a Crown Melon grower. The prefecture's muskmelons come from cultivation techniques refined over more than a century, with roots dating back to 1921.

For growers, the number is effectively part of their name, allowing buyers to identify the farmer behind each fruit.

Kimpara worries that if he cuts corners, buyers might someday say 727 melons are no longer as good as they once were.

Melons are displayed for judging at the Autumn Melon Quality Competition on Nov. 14, 2025, at the Crown Melon growers' association headquarters in Shizuoka Prefecture. Kimpara took first place at a competition in the summer of 2023.(©︎Crown Melon)

Melons are displayed for judging at the Autumn Melon Quality Competition on Nov. 14, 2025, at the Crown Melon growers' association headquarters in Shizuoka Prefecture. Kimpara took first place at a competition in the summer of 2023.(©︎Crown Melon)

Such craftsmanship can command a premium long before a muskmelon reaches a fruit shop.

Crown Melons are sorted by quality, and the rare Fuji label is the highest grade. Kimpara, who has produced Fujis before, says you can’t just make one on demand. 

Reputation matters, too. According to Yosuke Suzuki, general manager of the Crown Melon growers' association, muskmelons of the same grade and weight can fetch different wholesale prices depending on who grew them.

At Sembikiya Sohonten in Tokyo, where premium muskmelons can sell for more than 20,000 yen ($127) piece, the pursuit of perfection takes on another dimension: turning agricultural excellence into something customers recognize as valuable.

The transformation is striking for a business founded in 1834 as a modest street stall offering affordable fruits and vegetables during a period of famine and soaring prices in Japan.

An illustration depicting the area around Oyaji Bridge, where Sembikiya began its business in Edo in 1834. (ⓒSembikiya Sohonten Nihonbashi)

An illustration depicting the area around Oyaji Bridge, where Sembikiya began its business in Edo in 1834. (ⓒSembikiya Sohonten Nihonbashi)

According to the company's history, its founder, former samurai Benzo Oshima, was struggling to make a living when he began transporting peaches and other produce by boat from what is now Saitama Prefecture to Edo, as Tokyo was then known. He set up a roadside stall advertising inexpensive fruit, laying the foundations for a business that would eventually become synonymous with luxury.

Under the second-generation successor, Bunzo, the business became an official purveyor to the Tokugawa family.

Nearly two centuries later, Sembikiya relies on experienced buyers to select the finest fruit available. Produce passes through multiple stages of inspection, from wholesalers at Tokyo's Ota Market to the retailer's final assessment.

Fruit cannot be judged by uniform standards alone, according to company director Tsuguya Oshima, a direct descendant of the founder. "Its condition changes from day to day, so selecting the best fruit requires experience and a discerning eye."

Buyers look beyond sweetness to fragrance, texture and appearance. 

A muskmelon's intricate surface netting, for example, offers clues to how well the fruit has developed. 

The melon begins with a smooth rind, but as it grows, its skin develops tiny cracks that heal into the raised, cork-like network characteristic of a premium muskmelon. Fine, thick and abundant netting indicates healthy growth and nourishment, Oshima explained.

But the value of exceptional fruit in Japan extends beyond its physical qualities.

Oshima sees fruit as an expression of the country's gift-giving culture, in which a carefully chosen present can convey gratitude or appreciation without words. 

Fruit changes with the seasons and embodies the hard work of growers.

He sees each piece of fruit as "a creation, lovingly nurtured by growers with the same care and devotion they would give their own child," he said.

"Our role is to communicate the growers' efforts, so that customers can recognize and appreciate the true value of the fruit."

Such painstaking effort is on display at Nakagomi Noen orchard in Minami Alps, Yamanashi Prefecture, where a young woman carefully removes damaged berries from a cluster of Shine Muscat grapes.

For Kazumasa Nakagomi, producing exceptional peaches, grapes and other fruit is only part of the challenge. Turning them into a profitable business has also meant finding customers himself.

Each spring, workers at the ochard remove most of the buds from peach trees. Hand pollination and repeated thinning follow, until only a fraction remain as developing fruit, which are then wrapped in protective bags. 

The work demands experience. Nakagomi can bag about 1,000 peaches in an eight-hour day, but an 88-year-old worker who has helped at his orchard for three decades can manage twice that number.

 "Your body has to learn it," he said. 

Yet growing excellent fruit was only half the challenge. 

"One part is growing the fruit. The other is attracting customers. Those are the two wheels that keep the business moving," Nakagomi said.

As fruit prices weakened in the 1980s, he turned to apple-picking tourism in 1988. Business was initially slow.

One autumn, he noticed cars with license plates from outside Yamanashi heading toward the Southern Japanese Alps to see the fall foliage. He followed them to Yashajin Pass and found hundreds of cars parked there.

He bought plywood, made signs advertising apple picking and attached them to utility poles along the mountain road.

The following weekend, about 10 cars were waiting when he arrived to open the orchard. By day's end, he recalled, some 500 visitors had come.

But competitors soon began selling apples along the road. Nakagomi responded by distributing flyers at the mountain pass, later adding coupons offering a free apple.

The venture eventually expanded to other fruit. Today, his orchard also welcomes international guests for farm stays and seasonal fruit-picking through his English-language website.

Yet Japan's devotion to exceptional fruit stands in contrast to declining consumption. 

Adults consumed an average of just 92.9 grams of fruit and fruit products a day in 2023, according to government figures cited by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, less than half the recommended daily target of 200 grams. 

Japan had the lowest fruit supply among the 10 countries shown, at 44.7 kg per person in 2022.

Japan had the lowest fruit supply among the 10 countries shown, at 44.7 kg per person in 2022.

At the luxury end of the market, however, two top-tier Miyazaki mangoes have been offered for nearly 27,000 yen, a single bunch of Shine Muscat grapes for more than 18,000 yen, and a wooden box containing five Gifu strawberries for 54,000 yen.

Back in Shizuoka, Kimpara hopes consumers will look beyond the price of a Crown Melon and appreciate the year-round dedication required to produce it.

He suggested that even treating yourself to one a year lets you savor its unique flavor and see the effort that goes into making it.

But maintaining those standards is becoming increasingly difficult as production costs rise and growers contend with changing weather conditions.

For Kimpara, every melon leaving his greenhouse carries a reminder of that responsibility.

It bears the number 727, a mark of the family's reputation and the standards he must uphold. 

"That means I can't compromise. The number is, in a sense, my signature," he said.

Q. The melons that don't make the cut. What happens to the fruit that never becomes a Crown Melon?

A. Every Crown Melon begins with a competition that can mean survival for only one. But the rejected siblings aren't necessarily thrown away.

According to Yosuke Suzuki of the Crown Melon growers' association, the immature melons are often turned into crunchy pickles soaked in soysauce. Some even find their way onto the shelves of local grocery stores.

It's a surprising second life for fruit that never develops the sweetness or distinctive netted rind of its celebrated counterpart.

©︎Sembikiya Sohonten Nihonbashi

©︎Sembikiya Sohonten Nihonbashi

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